Koyasan - Buddhist holy land of Japan

Koyasan (also known as Mount Koya), is a sacred mountain located in Wakayama Prefecture, about 90km south of Osaka, and is the headquarters of the Shingon sect of Japanese Buddhism. Koyasan was founded in the early 9th century by the Zen master Kukai, also known as Kobo Daishi.

From a young age, Kukai showed his outstanding talent in studying and acquiring knowledge. In 804, after receiving a scholarship from the Emperor of Japan, he moved to China to study Shingon Buddhism (mikkyo) and philosophy. Kukai studied at the Xuanguang Zen school, one of China's leading intellectual and spiritual centers of the period.

During this period, he learned much knowledge about Esoteric Buddhism and its complex spiritual practices. After returning to Japan, he founded the Shingon sect, one of the largest and most influential sects of Japanese Buddhism. In 816, Kukai chose the wild and peaceful mountain Koya to build temples, a sacred and quiet place for practicing and studying Buddhism.

And today, let's explore Koyasan, a sacred, peaceful and extremely mysterious land of Japan!

Because it is located at the top of the mountain, moving is a bit difficult. First, I started from Osaka Namba Station, took the Nankai Koya Line, and reached the final destination at Gokurakubashi Station.

Gokurakubashi station address: https://maps.app.goo.gl/eEyJVx36mds1GutJ9

Next, move to the cable car area from Gokurakubashi station to Koyasan station. This was a quite interesting experience for me, very similar to the way to go to Hozan-ji temple that I wrote about in previous posts (you can review it at THIS).

Furthermore, after arriving at Koyasan station, I had to take the bus from Koyasan station and continue going up to the top of the mountain. There will be two buses going in two different directions, but don't worry, you can go in either direction, because either way we will return to the other direction to visit other places.

The first place I visited after reaching the top of the mountain was Kongobuji Temple.

Address: https://maps.app.goo.gl/7zHcj1kdCdPi4cTH7

Kongobuji is the head temple of the mystical Shingon sect in Koyasan, where the sect's annual prayers and rituals are also held.

Kongobuji Temple has undergone many repairs and expansions over the centuries, but still retains its classic and sophisticated architecture.

The next place I went to, located right opposite Kongobuji, was Benzaiten Shrine.

Address: https://maps.app.goo.gl/QF4yX14MmQ7U9qo7A

As the name suggests, Benzaiten Shrine worships Benzaiten, a god in the Shinto religion, considered the goddess of water, art, knowledge and luck. I quite like this temple, because the campus is extremely large, the space is quiet and extremely peaceful.

The next location, about 500 meters from Kongobuji, is Danjo Garan, monk Kukai's first temple complex in Koyasan, which includes many sacred buildings.

Address: https://maps.app.goo.gl/hU3KozdRyGCg1U7b9

Because there are many temples and pagodas in this area, I will introduce a tour of each temple in the direction of moving from Kongobuji to here.

• Konpon Daito.

Master Kukai began construction of Kopon Daito shortly after 816, but did not complete it before he entered eternal meditation. Construction work was undertaken by Shinzen, his disciple and successor in Koyasan, and completed around 887.

This tower was largely destroyed by fire due to lightning strikes 5 times in its history, and was rebuilt each time. The tower was last renovated in 1996, about 50 meters high, according to the original size from the 9th century. We can visit inside this tower, the entrance fee is 500 JPY. Because filming and photography are not allowed inside the tower, I will describe in detail the meaning of the inside of the tower below.

There are two important scriptures in Shingon: Dainichikyo and Kongochyo. Based on these two scriptures, Mr. Kukai visualized the truth of the universe in Kongokai-mandara (Diamond Realm) and Taizokai-mandara (Matrix Realm). He then transformed his vision into three-dimensional (3D) Buddha statues.

Inside Konpon Daito is kept a three-dimensional Mandala statue, with the center being a statue of Dainichi Nyorai (Main Buddha worshiped in Shingon), the statue is surrounded by four Buddhas. Buddha of the Vajra Realm, and sixteen great Bodhisattvas are depicted on sixteen surrounding pillars.

Konpon Daito is large and majestic, located in the heart of Danjo Garan.

• Kondo.

The Kondo serves as the main hall of Koyasan, and is where many ceremonies are held. Kondo houses a statue of the Medicine Buddha (not on display), flanked by two mandalas with separate altars. Around here are giant paintings depicting eight Bodhisattvas. Inside Kondo, filming and photography are also prohibited, and the entrance fee is 500 JPY.

• Rokkaku Kyozo.

This is a hexagonal Buddhist scripture repository, built in 1159 to contain a complete copy of the Buddhist scriptures, written in golden ink. The 1884 version of this building could rotate on its own, but after several fires, it was rebuilt in 1934 and now only the outer rim of the tower can rotate.

People often come here, using their strength to push the outer rim of the tower in a circle, which has a spiritual meaning as an act of respect and gratitude for knowledge and education. In Buddhism, spinning can represent tireless wisdom and dedication to learning and spiritual development.

Additionally, spinning can also be seen as an act of reverence and remembrance towards predecessors and saints in the Buddhist tradition. Rotating can be seen as a way to honor and commemorate the merits of those who spread Buddhism and contributed to the development of the religion.

• Miyashiro.

This is a complex of shrines dedicated to the Shinto gods who oversee Koyasan. When the great master Kukai consecrated Koyasan in 819, he invited two Shinto gods to stay here to protect the area.

Another Torii gate in the background.

Complex of temples.

• Sanko no Matsu

According to legend, when master Kukai was preparing to leave China in 806 to return to Japan, he threw a three-pointed vajra to the East, praying that it would show him the ideal place to go. built his monastery. It is said that he discovered at this location the vajra pestle that he threw into the pine tree at Koyasan in 816. The pine tree here has leaves with three needles, not the usual two needles, somewhat similar to a three-pointed vajra.

The photo above depicts several people trying to use pine needles to throw inside the red circle, replicating the legendary actions of master Kukai. If they successfully throw it inside, they will begin to pray. I also tried and was lucky to throw it successfully on the first try 😀

• Miedo.

This place was originally where master Kukai used to meditate. Inside contains a portrait of Kukai himself, painted during his lifetime by his disciple – the monk Shinnyo, a former prince. This portrait is one of Koyasan's greatest treasures and is not on public display.

This building was burned three times, rebuilt in 1848, and survived the Kondo fire of 1926. The portrait was saved from each fire, and Miedo is an important religious building especially in Koyasan (along with Okunoin - the place I'm about to introduce) thanks to that.

• Chumon.

Chumon, also known as the middle gate, began construction in 819, and was destroyed many times by fire, the last time being in the great fire of 1843. And after more than 170 years, only the remaining original foundation stone. But in 2015, the gate was rebuilt to commemorate the 1200th anniversary of the founding of Koyasan.

In addition to the two original statues, saved from the fire of 1843, two new statues were carved to form a complete set of the four Guardian Kings, and these were kept in the gate.

So ends the journey to explore all the locations in the Danjo Garan complex. However, we have only completed half of the journey. Let's continue to explore the mystery hidden deep in Koyasan mountain.

After that, I moved to the next location, about 1km from Danjo Garan, located on the other branch of Koyasan (Kongobuji and Danjo Garan are located on one branch, on the right side in the direction of the bus), which is the temple. Jofuku-in. When I arrived at this location, it also started to snow heavily, making the photos even more mysterious.

Address: https://maps.app.goo.gl/28dyBZRW1pQAfmsH9

Jofuku-in is located in the central area of Koyasan. Although not a large temple, it attracts many visitors thanks to its peaceful beauty and quiet space, along with extremely outstanding architecture. is almost the most prominent on the road I took from Kongobuji to here.

One of the highlights of Jofuku-in is its hosting of cultural and spiritual experiences, including Buddhist teachings, prayers, and practice activities. Visitors can also participate in classes on traditional arts such as calligraphy and Japanese lantern festivals.

In addition, Jofuku-in also provides accommodation services for tourists who want to experience monk life for a short time. The rooms are designed simply but comfortably, with a peaceful space and necessary amenities for visitors to enjoy a quiet vacation on Koyasan Mountain.

Pilgrims and tourists alike can stay at shukubo (temple inns), some of which even have luxury rooms. Visitors to Koyasan have the opportunity to enjoy shojin vegetarian cuisine, participate in meditation sessions, walk in the forest as well as explore the famous cemetery.

I also walked the entire journey (instead of taking the bus) to fully feel the peaceful atmosphere here, along with recording images of Koyasan immersed in falling snow.

The next location, also the last location in my journey to explore Koyasan today, is Okunoin mausoleum.

Address: https://maps.app.goo.gl/HXRUPFY1A3Ezp3sv6

This is about 2km long, passing through tombs and memorial towers built to comfort the souls of those who have passed away.

Okunoin is known as Japan's largest cemetery, the burial place of many famous Buddhist monks and followers.

If you count the visible graves, there are more than 200,000 graves here, and many more are underground.

These memorials were placed more than 1,200 years ago, and are dedicated to warlords and figures who left their mark on Japanese history.

In particular, this place also has the mausoleum of general Akechi Mitsuhide, who betrayed his master - the legendary warlord Oda Nobunaga, in Kyoto in 1582.

After his death, Akechi Mitsuhide became Oda Nobunaga's sworn enemy. And what is very special, Oda Nobunaga is also commemorated in Koyasan. The enemies are resting in the same place – Okunoin.

Let's see some extremely mysterious images inside this road:

The rows of trees are so huge: even though there is a lot of snow falling outside, it is completely covered by the trees, like a giant umbrella.

At the end of this road, is the Gobyo mausoleum, where Kukai has meditated eternally since 835, praying for human happiness.

People always think that Mr. Kukai is still here, a deep belief that has not changed. And the monks still brought Kukai meals twice a day.

Outside are also some temples and spiritual areas.

The snow is falling thicker and thicker.

At this point, I have completed my journey to explore the spiritual land of Koyasan, which was added to the UNESCO World Heritage List in 2004. This is a recognition for its historical, cultural and spiritual value. The special spirit of Mount Koyasan, as well as its important role in preserving and maintaining Japan's cultural heritage.

This is also an extremely passionate article of mine, and I also invested a lot of time in experiencing, taking photos, searching for information sources in English and Japanese and translating them into Vietnamese, in total. Put them together and share them with your real-life discovery experience. Hopefully this article will help everyone learn more about the culture and history of Koyasan in particular and Japan in general.

In addition, I would also like to thank NHK WORLD JAPAN and monk Inaba Jijyun for some extremely valuable images and information that I have cited in the article.

Thank you for reading to the end of the article!

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